Dog training for puppies is one of the important training you must give your pet. Once at home you place the bench at the resting place in the house that you have in mind for the puppy. Make sure that the bench is not in a closed room.

The ideal place for a bench is in a corner of the living room, so that it is not in the walking path, but you puppy can still see and smell it.

Do not to move the bench during the first two weeks, so that your puppy will start to trust the bench easier and faster as her resting place.

When you are playing with your puppy and notice that she is getting tired, you can invite her to go to the bench. If your puppy loves a chewing-can, you can symbolize the bench as the place where she always gets this chewing-can.

While guiding the dog to the bench, do this with a chew. As soon as she is in the bench, she gets her chewing-can. During the bench training try to leave her in the bench for the first time for fifteen minutes and the next time for thirty minutes, and so you build up the time she uses the bench.

Close the door of the bench when the puppy has calm down. Never close the door of the bench when the puppy is tense or anxious, as this can lead to fears for the dog and even build up more anxiety. Bench training requires some time and effort, but it is certainly worth it!

If your puppy begins to whine after a while, do not give her any attention.

Note: Just give her no attention if you are sure that she does not have to pee or poop. If you are not sure and your puppy has been in the bench for some time, get her out and guide her to the place where she can do this without giving her any extra attention.

Be sure to shorten the time in the bench in the future to prevent repetition. If you continue to practice the bench training for a while, you will have a trained puppy as a final result!

A bench is also very useful at the moment that you want to travel or stay overnight with friends or family. Dogs love adventures and new environments. By means of this bench training, you can take your dog anywhere without any trouble, because she always has her resting place with her.

You can compare a puppy with a child. A child  knows no bounds, and a child will not go to bed on his own accord. At a certain point your pup becomes overtired and gets irritated. faster, you must not get to her too late in a time like this so that you can provide the next care she needs.

Try to make sure that you understand the signals from your pup, so that you can anticipate this early. The same applies to toilet training; when you learn to read and understand the signals from your pup, you will always be able to take a good care of the situation.

Let your puppy know that there are rules and limits. After playing, make sure that she gets the opportunity to urinate and defecate and then she has to take her rest in his bench, so that he does not get tired. A clear set rules are important for humans and animals.

Read More: Dog crate training tips you need to know

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How To Handle The Situation

It is the fear of every dog ​​owner: coming home from a day’s work or a nice dinner and your whole living room is messed up. The new shoes? Tattered. The carpet? torn  in pieces. through the living room. Your magazines? Rendered unreadable.

It is important to know if this is caused by boredom or stress. Your dog is still the sweet companion that is always there for you, do not forget that. It is of no use to vent your anger to respond to your dog’s behaviour. Quietly and if necessary place the dog in his own place and try to find a lasting solution to the problem.

Do you leave your dog alone with enough toys or something tasty to chew while you’re away? If you do then there is a chance that it was a one-off occurrence. Does your dog have all this available or does it happen more than once? Then there is a chance that your dog will have a stress peak during your absence that has to go out of his body.

To reduce the stress, your dog will start to chew all kinds of things quickly. This is because stress-reducing hormones are released during the chewing process. Of course it is better to deal with the source of stress than just to solve the symptom.

1. Does your dog have his own, safe place?

Every dog ​​needs a place where he can and may always withdraw. This can be a dog mat in a corner of the room, its bench, a certain room in the house. It is important that the dog knows that this is really meant for him: if he withdraws here, then you have to dare to leave the dog alone.

A dog that can never come to rest can build up stress, which can be expressed in destructiveness.

2. Has there been a change in the composition of the pack?

Your dog sees your family as his pack. If everything went well in basic parenting, he recognizes his place within your family. There is a supreme boss and there are “side bosses”. A dog may never claim a position over another human member of the family.

If for example. suddenly a member of the pack moves, it is possible that the dog struggles with his position. If the sucker is absent for longer than usual and the other members of the pack have to take care of the dog, a small power struggle can occur.

This can be. expressed in excessive barking to a certain person. It is very important that everyone in the family reacts in the right way: the dog does not decide when he gets attention, but the owners. Of course, a good balance has to be found here.

All too often there is a member of the family that confirms a negative demand for attention: for example, a barking dog is often lulled with a little caress. This ensures that the negative behavior is rewarded and must therefore be avoided.

3. Has your dog experienced an unpleasant experience when your family was absent?

A dog who has had to endure a very unpleasant experience on his own, without the support of his family, can start to show undesirable behavior. Sometimes it is enough to have heard the neighbors quarreling, or loud bangs of fireworks, or the sudden noise of a thunderbolt and thunder.

It is of course not easy to figure this out: a chat with the neighbors can sometimes make much clear. Whatever the experience, it will be a matter of getting your dog to get used to being alone again, and letting him see that being alone is not negative.

Begin by giving your dog access to his own safe place. If this is for example a bench, give your dog a small nibble, close the door and leave.

Come back in 5 minutes later, let your dog out of the bench and behave especially calmly. There is no need to be extremely enthusiastic. You try to teach your dog that just being alone is normal!

You can practice this several times, even in the course of one day, and extend to fifteen minutes.

Make sure your dog can not do anything wrong: remove everything that is not meant for him. If possible, place a webcam. Exit the door and follow your dog’s behavior from neighbors. Go back home calmly when you notice that your dog starts to show very nervous behavior.

After a few times you can practice for example. leave the bench open again. If you work with a bed, you can make it a bit bigger.
Build this systematically until your dog can be alone again for an hour. This does not have to take weeks: on a weekend, you can get a lot done if you act consistently.

If your dog still continues the chewing, do all the steps mentioned above again. Stay patient!

Make sure that there is no too strict ritual in your departure: many dogs start to skip when they see that someone in the family is wearing a coat. Do certain parts of your departure ritual at unexpected moments: put on your coat and go for example in the garden or sit in the chair.

Your dog will learn to not start building stress every time he recognizes certain behaviors. Some owners feel guilty because they leave their dog and compensate this with excessive attention just before they leave.

Focus on yourself, not on the dog.

Do the same when you get home: over-enthusiastic greeting your dog is just what you should not do. Give yourself some rest, your dog will pick this up. If your dog has to pee, you let him out, of course, but this is best without “compensation enthusiasm”.

More Reading: Do you have a challenging dog

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Baby coming? Are you and your dog already baby-proof?

I have a counseling program for people who want to prepare their dog and themselves for the arrival of their baby.
Now you probably think: “Oh, but we do not need that! Our dog is so sweet, it does not hurt a fly. ” Or “Say yes, that goes without saying!”. “My dog ​​should be able to do it. He will learn it.

There is no need for a project at all! ” Or “I can see how my dog ​​responds.” The pregnancy time is however the ideal time to prepare your dog for what is going to happen. Because believe me, not only will your life change enormously, but also that of your dog.

It is therefore very useful to think about what you need to change and what behavior you will expect from your dog before the arrival of your new baby. It is so costly to spend time here during pregnancy. Because once your child is there and it is not going well, the process will be so heavy and intensive.

Why would you want to take the risk?

Many parents also say “I do not have time for that now.” I understand that, we are all very busy, but do you think you will have time when your baby is there? I do not think so. On the contrary.
Would it not give you peace of mind if you just do not have to worry about your dog’s behavior with regard to your baby and you know what to do and how to react?

Are you prepared for the first meeting between your dog and your baby? How are you going to tackle this so that everything goes smoothly? Would not it feel good that you should not worry about this? That first meeting is still a very important moment. It can go well, but it can also wrong.

A dog who knows what is expected of him is much more reliable than a dog who has to find it out for himself.

And what about all that visit that comes to your sweetheart?
Expectant parents prepare themselves for their baby’s arrival. The baby room is being put in order, the house is baby-proof, all necessary things have been bought, a delivery plan is being made, etc.

Why not consider the question of what the dog needs during the first meeting and getting used to the baby. Anyway, let us consider a number of things that may all change for your dog once your little one is there. This list is certainly not complete.

Has your dog been in the house without seeing a child for years?

Then you need to lay down some rules in the house for your dog to follow. Consider the following areas. You may add to them as you wish.

Listening without howling, shouting and panic
Wait patiently until your own needs are filled in
Less time for walks, play and contact moments
Get used to all kinds of new baby objects and their sounds
Understanding moody owner due to too little sleep
Stay away from baby toys and stuff
Being happy at the arrival of mom, but not too enthusiastic because of the baby
Do not bark because of the baby
No longer allowed to come anywhere in the house
Do not lick the baby
Come, but not too close
Not allowed on the play mat of the baby
Calm while near the baby
Do not disturb while feeding the baby
Otherwise being touched and sometimes even climbed and pinched
Be calm when other children are visiting. Etc.

Do we not live too much in a fairy-tale world-like dog and child? – Lassie, Lady and the Tramp, Pluto, Beethoven, …?

What are your expectations?
Do you want to prepare yourself and your dog for the arrival of your little baby? Then you better start preparing now.

More Reading: Do you have a challenging dog?

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Read more: Why you cannot afford to leave your dog alone

Many people are not aware that if you let dogs meet on a leash, this can cause many problems. Yet this is usually what happens when you meet another dog in your street, for example. Let the dogs sniff or chat with the owner and then continue walking. This can have unpleasant consequences for your dog.

The ideal meeting between two dogs is without a leash, where both dogs have the choice whether they want to meet, at what pace and at any time the meeting can be interrupted by walking away.
In a leashed meeting the dog is disturbed in their natural communication.

Normally they would reduce their walking pace when they walked towards each other. The leash length is determined by the owner. If you walk on the same sidewalk as the approaching dog, the dogs run straight for each other. In dog language this is rude behavior. Dogs would choose to twist curves around each other and if desired, make the bows smaller and smaller, after which they can be cuddled together.

The belt ensures that dogs have no possibility to flee. If they find the other dog exciting or scary then they can not go anywhere. In case of threatening situations, a dog chooses whether to flee or fight. Because the flights are taken away by the belt, there will be chosen before to take the fight. Because a dog is often forced to meet other dogs, many dogs end up with reactivity to other dogs.

If your dog goes down, growls and barks someone else with a dog,he will probably keep a distance, so that your dog learns that this behavior gives him something and he will repeat it more often.
Many owners say that their dog loves these encounters, but that is still to be doubted. Many people do not see the stress signals of their dog. Firstly because many people are not familiar with it and secondly because we do not pay attention to it.
But also for the dogs who like it very often problems arise. That often starts as a puppy. Proudly the owner walks with his cute puppy on the street. Under the guise of socialization, the dog can get acquainted with every dog ​​(and person) they encounter. The pup soon learns that seeing another dog is the same as meeting this dog.

The sight of another dog will make him more and more enthusiastic in the future. We want to teach a puppy to show calm behavior when seeing other dogs (or people) on the street. An over-enthusiastic dog is not a good start for a meeting. The other dog can not be served by the busy behavior and the encounter can turn into an annoying experience, where aggressive behavior is shown.

Eventually you will also start to notice that if you do not feel like meeting in one go and walk in the other direction that your dog does not agree with this. He may struggle, pull to the other dog or bark and squeak.

Apart from the above reasons you do not know how this dog will react when you meet an unknown dog. Maybe it’s an aggressive dog, a dog with pain that can have little, a frightened dog, a female bitch, and so on.

With the above I do not suggest that you have to let your dog run loose everywhere. The leash is also for the safety of our dogs. Do you have your dog on a leash and do you want to prevent a meeting with another dog?

For example, cross the street so that the dogs can pass each other on either side of the street or if possible take some distance by stepping on the roadside a few paces and let the other dog pass while you do an exercise with your own dog.

If unexpectedly a loose dog arrives at your leash or someone with a dog on the leash that pops up from nowhere, make sure you keep your leash relaxed. Move your hand holding the belt with your dog if it takes some distance and prevent the belts from twisting. Do you see that there is too much tension or stress in one of the dogs is built, then see if you can get the attention of your dog and walk together again. Do not feel compelled by social pressure to introduce your dog to another dog.

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The dog is one of the world’s most popular and social pets. Dog owners are usually fond of their four-legged friends and that is understandable, because they give their owners love in a unique way. You can walk with it, they guard the house, you can play with it, they like to cuddle and so on. Yet there are some stubborn myths about dogs and a lot of people tend to believe these stories. But what is the truth behind 5 frequently told dog myths?

The warm and dry nose

Many people believe that dogs, and by extension other pets like cats, have a cold and wet nose. Such a nose would be a sign of health. Yet that is not always the case, because even with a healthy dog ​​the nose can sometimes feel warm and dry. If you, as the owner, still think that a dry nose indicates health problems, you can of course still take action and go to the vet. Being sure can never hurt, right?

The soft spot

The following myth has to do with petting your dog. Many people believe that your four-legged friend loves it when he or she is caressed in the lower abdomen and the saddle region of the body. This myth stems from the fact that dogs react rather special to caresses about these parts of the body: they start to spin around, jump up and down and scratch their legs. Yet the opposite is true, because owners often do not realize that the caresses affect the nervous system of the dog, as a result of which the animal inadvertently starts all kinds of movements.

Pee with the paw up

Adult dogs, especially the males but sometimes also the females, raise a leg when they pee and this in contrast to puppies. The myth is that our four-legged friends do that because of their hormones, but that is actually sheer nonsense. dogs are social animals and so they want to let them know where they have been. By lifting their paw upwards, the urine simply sprays out wider and that helps the animals to spread their scent. You can compare it a bit with leopards that define their territory on the savannah by urinating against trees. Let them know ‘I’ve been here’.

Old dogs

The following myth consists of the cliché that your old dogs can not learn new things. So you can let a dog do only new trucks when it is still a young animal. That is wrong, because dogs are intelligent animals that are never too old to learn things. What’s more, by teaching an old dog new behaviors, you just stimulate the health of his mind and that can only be positive.

Wait with training

The last myth is that many dog ​​owners are convinced that they have to wait until their puppy is six months before they can train the animal. This myth is because dogs around the age of six months slowly mature and thus better understand what is being taught them. That is not correct, because actually you can train the puppy best from the moment the animal arrives at your home. After all, young dogs are soon able to learn certain behaviors. In this way you also avoid that the puppy is going to do difficult when he is almost full grown. So do not wait too long to go to a good dog school. Take a look in advance and discover if the style of teaching suits you. If you feel at ease in your dog school, it will be fun for you and your dog to learn and work together in these lessons.

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Read More:Your dog health is your responsibility

Is your dog aggressive? Do you want solution to your dog aggression? You are not alone in this situation. Here are the concerns of some dog owners and a study conducted in 1983 on how to deal with the problem of dog aggression.

Hi Shibashake.

I really enjoyed reading this, including all the comments. I also appreciate very much your inclusion of the Polski and Schalke studies. It is refreshing to see legitimate citations of actual controlled studies regarding a topic so incendiary as this one. I’m very curious as to why you didn’t find other studies, particularly the 1983 Tortora study, worth mentioning?

My 7yr old Bull Terrier has been my companion and my pride&joy for the past year. She is deaf, and she has some “instrumental” dog-aggression issues, as well as a prey-drive that can only be described as cartoonishly over-the-top. She doesn’t know the difference between a goat vs a cat vs a running valet vs a child on a tricycle vs a piece of trash blowing in the wind: if it looks like its running from her, she MUST get it… even straight into traffic. Deafness completely aside–there is no communicating with her when she goes into this “zone”. You may as well try to communicate with a cannonball en route.

I am concerned about her stress levels, and after reading your blog I am keenly aware of how difficult it must be to apply shock-training competently. I am also keenly aware of the unnecessary stress created by these behaviors (it is nerve-racking for her AND me). I’m trying to decide which outweighs the other. Her aggression issues seem to be diminishing over time as I learn more about pack-dynamics, but the intensity of the prey drive and tunnel-vision focus that accompany it remain overpowering.

After a year of deliberating, reading, and weeding out the namby-pamby appeals to emotion (“poor, poor dogs, evil, evil humans”) as well as the neanderthalic appeals to cowboy-complexes (“gotta show the dog who’s boss!”) I have decided that the vibration-signal feature is a must for us, but I’m still open to rational discourse regarding the shock feature. I would love to hear your thoughts on the Tortora study 🙂

Tortora’s 1983 Study

Tortora’s 1983 study consists of 3 experiments. The one most talked about in shock collar discussions is the “safety training” experiment (Exp 2). Some proponents of shock collars use Tortora’s study to claim that electronic collars are effective at reducing general aggression in dogs.

Based on my reading of Tortora’s paper, these claims are false. I will explain why below.

Tortora’s “safety training” experiment (Exp 2) consists of three phases:

Phase 1 – Pre-testing and Pre-training

36 dogs with avoidance motivated aggression were trained to perform 15 basic obedience commands using regular techniques. Training started with a continuous schedule of reinforcement, then moved on to variable. Both play and choke collars were used. No shocks.

Phase 2 – Conditioning

After a command was given, a warning buzz is presented, then the electrical stimulus is delivered. When a dog performs the command (correct escape behavior), a safety signal or tone was used right before the electrical stimulus was turned off.

Training of commands was conducted in progressively more challenging conditions, and the level of electrical stimulus was also increased during the training process. Ultimately, the dogs were trained to tolerate and perform under high levels of electrical stimulus. Once that was achieved, the dogs were trained without the shocks.

Phase 3 – Normalization

Subjects were tested for the absence of aggression under maximally stressful and aggression-inducing circumstances, for example, while the animal was roughly handled and beaten about the body with a rolled-up newspaper or switch.

If the dog failed to perform the command or responded with aggression then a full intensity electrical stimulus was delivered. Finally, the electrical stimulus was slowly phased out and training was transferred to the owner’s home.

Tortora reported that this procedure “resulted in complete and permanent elimination of aggression in all of the 36 dogs tested”. Note that this study specifically addresses cases of avoidance-motivated-aggression, which is different from pain elicited aggression and fear motivated aggression.

Tortora also showed (in Exp 1) that these other types of aggression and problem behaviors can be effectively addressed with established counter-conditioning techniques, and does not require such extreme measures.

What Is Avoidance Motivated Aggression?

It is important to note that Tortora’s experiment 2 deals specifically with avoidance motivated aggression. Therefore, we should understand exactly what avoidance motivated aggression is, and how it differs from other types of aggression.

Avoidance motivated aggression is an aversively motivated aggression in dogs. I.e. the dog is using aggression as a means to avoid an anticipated aversive event (e.g. expectation of pain).

Avoidance-motivated aggression in dogs involves biting attacks or threats of attack directed toward one or more of the dog’s human caretakers. As the name implies, these threats and bites are assumed to be avoidance responses that are acquired and maintained by the prevention of anticipated aversive events.
~~[Tortora 1983, pp176]

Some properties of avoidance motivated aggression that differentiate it from other aversively motivated aggression:

  1. It can appear to be unpredictable.

    Through higher order conditioning and generalization, a variety of apparently neutral and unrelated stimuli come to elicit the avoidance response of aggression.

  2. The dog does not produce any signals that may indicate the onset of aggression.
  3. It produces a much more serious attack than the other forms of aggression.

    Avoidance-motivated aggression usually involves multiple bites, a sustained attack, and is not self-terminating.

  4. Avoidance-motivated aggression develops over time and there is a clear escalation in the level of aggression as it develops. The aggressive episodes increase in duration, frequency, force/damage, and occur over a larger range of stimuli. I.e., there are many chances to fix the issue before it develops into an “instrumental avoidance response”.
  5. Counter conditioning techniques that are effective with other forms of aversively motivated aggression, have little effect on avoidance motivated aggression.

Tortora’s safety training is a complex 9 stage process that specifically addresses avoidance motivated aggression. Safety training using shock collars is very different from aversion therapy or aversive training using shock collars. Aversive training is how shock collars are commonly used today, i.e. shock the dog when he is performs an undesirable behavior. Continue delivering the shock until he stops that behavior.

In Exp 3, Tortora showed that when only “full-intensity signaled shock was used to punish aggression”, there was only a slight decrease in aggression. I.e., shock aversion therapy or simple shock aversive training is not an effective way to suppress aggression in our dogs.

Key Points from Tortora’s 1983 Study

Some salient points I derived from Tortora’s paper:

1. Timing and clear communication

Timing and clear communication are very important, especially in pain based aversive training. This was shown in Phase 2 where Tortora used a warning buzz and conditioned the dog to a safety signal. Using a unique tone also allows us to more consistently and accurately mark a behavior in time (the same type of thing is used in clicker training).

Accurate timing and clear communication is important because it lets the dog know how to stop or avoid the pain from an electrical stimulus. This was also shown in Schalke’s study, where the dogs that could make a clear association, i.e. knew how to stop the pain, did not experience elevated stress levels. This only occurred in the very simple aversion case and not on recall.

This is also why aversive techniques are risky because most of us, especially novice trainers, have far from perfect timing, and may not always communicate with our dogs in a precise and clear manner.

2. Pain is a strong but risky motivator

Using pain can produce more reliable compliance in our dogs, because pain is a strong motivator. However, pain and stress can elicit an aggressive reaction from our dogs. This was also present in Tortora’s study. In fact, in Exp 1, Tortora reports that of the 92 avoidance motivated aggression cases, 90% had prior pain based aversive experiences.

The dogs in this study initially behaved as if they “expected” aversive events and that the only way to prevent these events was through aggression.

3. Tortora’s experiment 2 is a very extreme and specialized process

Dogs can also get habituated to the pain, and subsequently require a stronger and stronger stimulus. For example, Tortora reported increasing the electrical stimulus to high and ultimately maximum levels during the study.

Avoidance motivated aggression can be suppressed with avoidance training and the use of full intensity shocks.


I am not sure why Tortora’s study is used to make the case for electronic collars or shock collars. As I understand it, his work is targeted at “dangerously aggressive dogs”, in particular those that did not respond to “established counter-conditioning treatments”, i.e., only cases of avoidance motivated aggression. It is clear that his procedure is very extreme, requires a lot of precision and knowledge, and is only meant for very limited situations. If anything, it is a cautionary tale of what could happen if we fail our dog in his management, care, and training.

Tortora shows that pain and stress can cause aggression (which is consistent with other studies), and that avoidance motivated aggression can be suppressed with avoidance training and full intensity shocks. To me, this underscores the risks of using pain based aversive techniques, and inadvertently creating a “dangerously aggressive dog”, who then has to undergo even more extreme treatment or face euthanasia. Tortora states

Behavior therapy for such dogs has always been the last step before euthanasia.

In conclusion, it should be emphasized that safety training for dogs is not being recommended literally as a behavior therapy program for avoidance-motivated human psychopathologies. A substitute for electrical stimulation may have to be found.

If you are considering using shock collars because of Tortora’s study, please read it carefully and in full first. Unfortunately, inaccurate claims abound on the internet.

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Baking dog pancake

Dog pancake is a good option you can consider when you want to reward your dog. This is a simple guide on how to bake a pancake for your dog. This recipe is a special dog pancake. This contains no milk, because lactose is not good for a dog.

You can cut the pancake into small pieces and use it as a variation on your normal rewards. Do not make too much because the pancake can only be kept in the fridge for about two days. Do you want to keep it longer? then you can keep it in a fridge.

Talking about reward. You can reward your dog for doing anything that is delight some to you. You can give reward for taking to a particular instruction you are trying to pass across to him, or just any other thing you want the dog to continue to do.

Reward will encourage your dog and make him to want to do more of what he is being rewarded for, because he will definitely want more reward.

Rewarding a dog should not be based upon food alone. You can take him for a walk, buy a new toy, or a new dog house. Whatever you do, let your dog why you are doing it.

Dog loves cake, and since it is a simple treat to prepare you can always make a nice cake for you dog whenever you feel you want to reward him. It is also not expensive to prepare, hence it is a very cheap option.

Dog Pancake Recipe
1 cup flour
1 cup water
1 egg

Throw all the ingredients together and mix with a whisk until smooth. Use a small amount of oil in the pan and pour a little of the batter into the pan. Fry the dog pancake on both sides until golden brown.

For the decoration and variation I used peanut butter to pour over it and raspberries with blueberries. This is a good treat for a dog, but do not give too much peanut butter to your dog because of its high fat and salt concentration.

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Read More: Your dog health is your responsibility

Dog walking during spring is fun.Spring is in full swing and it is also a lovely walking weather. Both the belt and the loose is a wonderful escape for the dog. You will observe of course other dogs, hikers, cyclists, joggers and riders  also enjoying the beautiful weather.  See if your dog is walking in the area where you are going to walk or that there is a restriction in that area.
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What do you need for  dog walking when you want to walk your dog?

My top 3 favorite hiking areas

I really like dog walking. It is not only interesting to me but to my dog also. It is a beautiful way to play with him and make him lose his energy. I would like to share with you my top 3 favorite hiking areas, place I love. to visit whenever I do dog walking.

3. Hoorneboegse Heide in Hilversum

 walking horny heath

One of my most favorite hiking areas is the “Hilversumse Heide”. An area of ​​145 hectares consisting of forest and heath. Dogs may run out all year long, provided they listen well. In the heath are Scottish highlanders. They are used to dogs so they will not run, but when dogs run after them or when they have calves they can be protective. Next to the hiking route there is a horse riding route through this area.

When you are through with dog walking you can eat a delicious pancake at the De Rading pancake house, here is also a large parking lot. The address of this car park is Utrechtseweg 140 in Hilversum. On the other side of the heath you can enjoy a snack at the snack bar or the dog-friendly Fly Inn at the airport.

  • Nice area
  • Well-accessible trails, also with wheelchair / baby carriage
  • Nice hiking trails
  • Heal and forest alternation
  • Hospitality opportunity
  • Free parking spaces

2. Dog beach and dune area in Noordwijk

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If you want to make a wonderful beach walk with your dog then the Noordwijk dog walking beach is a must. When you park on the Koningin Astrid Boulevard and turn left there, you can walk all year long, to the Katwijk sign. This piece is about 2.5 km so plenty of space for a wonderful walk. Please note: when you are on the right, running dogs are only allowed from  September 1st to June 1st.

If you like a nice drink or a snack, you can have it as you desire.  A very dog-friendly beach tent is also available for your relaxation, but dogs must be lined up.

  • All year round access for running dogs
  • Nice clean beach
  • Super catering
  • Enough parking
  • Paid parking
  • In high season very busy with tourists

 Walking with dog

eMy favorite hiking area in the Netherlands is the Long Dunes in Soest, also known as the Soesterduinen. Dogs may run loose in the area of ​​the Long Dunes all year long. What makes this area attractive to many dog ​​owners in addition to the dunes, is that there is also a very large forest where dogs can walk loose. There are also small pieces of heath. This makes it a beautiful and diverse environment for dog walking.

In addition to various hiking routes, mountain bike trails and horse riding routes are also available in this area. Therefore, keep in mind when you are dog walking and playing with your dog. The only downside in this area is that there is no (swimming) water for the dogs. When there is a lot of rain, it is more fun, but this is not the case all year long.

Parking is free. This can be done at the end of the Foekenlaan. After, before or during the walk you can eat and drink at the Brasserie de Lange Duinen. There are also watercourses ready for your dog (s) and there is a playground for children.

  • Spacious and clear area
  • Nice hiking routes
  • Sand, forest and heath alternation
  • Catering
  • Enough free parking space
  • No (swimming) water
  • Not wheelchair accessible

What is your favorite area for walking with your dog?

Further reading: Why does my dog have to exercise

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Photo: Manon Nuvelstijn-Proost

There are many stories and advice about the education and development of puppies. We would like to create some order in all stories and misunderstandings. We will go deeper into a number of things that are often being said without any substantiation for them. We will go for exercises, the famous / infamous 5 minute rule when walking, and busy puppies that seem tirelessly.

Issue 1: I do not start practicing / training until later, then he learns everything better

At first there is quite a lot to be said. Dogs can usually start a sport around the age of 1 year. There are also preparatory activities that you can start with earlier, such as e.g. pre-agility. But then you only have an eye for the future sport. The basic preparation for a sport is the good development of the motor skills and fitness of the future sport dog. He must be physically ready to start the sport without problems. That development actually starts in the nest.

The nervous system is basically ready to be used at birth of the puppy. It only needs to be activated. With each activity the insulation layer around the nerves (myelin) is made thicker . That layer ensures that the speed of a stimulus in that nerve increases and that the stimulus becomes more specific because it can not leak to other nerve pathways. A nerve with a thickened myelin sheath always remains intact.

At one point – in dogs we think about 6 to 7 months – all nerve connections that are not regularly used are removed by the body. At a later time in life, these nerve connections are no longer easily established. You can still learn a lot, but the self-evidence of automatisms (also called muscle memory) and learning ability is greatly reduced. Children who learn two languages ​​within the first ten years of life will learn all languages ​​more easily for life. That learning ability is activated. Others may learn a foreign language, but they will never be as extremely talented as those who have learned it at a young age. You will never forget cycling when you have learned that at your young age. That is why it is better to teach your pup to learn balance and Core Stability with a lot of different circumstances at an early stage. The ease of movement is learned in the first months. Then you have to row with the straps your dog has. It is therefore unfortunate if you miss this first period unused.

Issue 2: 5 minute regulation for walking

A rule circulates that a pup can walk for 5 minutes per month of life. We do not agree with this. It is too rigid a rule, which of course has been drawn out as a precaution because puppy owners tend to walk too early for too long. Especially if you already have several dogs.

You do not walk extensively with a puppy. You can take it with you in a baby carrier on your stomach or in a cart if you walk with the other dogs. It is a good idea to put him on the ground for a few minutes at regular intervals and let him move freely. Always look for alternating places that are safe for the puppy. He thus receives a wealth of experiences, which he can process well. He can also look at his surroundings and socialize in this way. Take a good look at your pup. If he gets tired – and that is with a lot of impressions soon – you stop loosening and he goes back into the cart or baby carrier. Later on the walk you can repeat this ritual.

Issue 3: My puppy is very busy. He has to become even more tired, otherwise he will not handle it.

Puppies like to play and can run around unrestrained. Sometimes he can not calm down. People then think that you have to make your puppy tired. That he has too much energy when he is running around like that. Often the opposite is true. The puppy can be tired and over-stimulated. He does not really know what he is doing anymore. Apart from the fact that it can be dangerous for him because he no longer has any control over his movements, he will become increasingly restless. You actually train him to become busy. Just when a puppy is so unrestrainedly active, you give him a time-out in the bench. First rest and then he can start new activities again with fresh courage.

Further Reading: Which Dog Breed Would YOu Rather Choose
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